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At the very western end of England is the aptly named Land’s End, a stretch of high, tough granite cliffs against which the huge forces of the Atlantic Ocean waves constantly break. Here you will find the First and Last Inn in England and the First and Last shop. Offshore, the Longships Lighthouse still stands sentinel to protect shipping as they pass Land’s End.
In between Hayle and Land’s End, you will find a great variety of experiences in the towns, villages, moors, harbours, golf courses, ancient monuments and beaches of Rosamund Pilcher country. Here you, too can become a “Shell Seekers”.
Hayle itself was an important industrial centre during the Industrial Revolution with the Cornwall Copper Company foundry at CopperHouse and its fierce rival Harveys’ Foundry at the western end of town. Here, huge steam engines were built and exported by sea including to the Netherlands where the engines drained the polder to reclaim vast areas from the sea. Ships were built here, too, but the town of importance in shipping was St. Ives, just across the bay. St. Ives was the headquarters of the HAIN shipping line, founded in the days of sail and later incorporated into the giant shipping line P&O, contiuing under its own flag until as recently as 1962. St Ives is situated on the western edge of beautiful St Ives Bay, by invitation a member of the exclusive Most Beautiful Bays in the World Club.
Our other town, Penzance, is the western terminus of what was built as the Great Western Railway, a direct rail link with Paddington in London, some 300 miles away with express connections taking as little as 5 hours. Here, the Penlee House museum exhibits important works of art, mainly of the Newlyn School of plein-air artists, and the sub tropical Morrab Gardens provide somewhere to relax in the sunshine.
Chy an Creet Private Hotel in St. Ives is a popular place to stay in West Cornwall. Hardy folks can put on a pair of sturdy walking boots and set off after breakfast for an energetic walk from St.Ives to the "Tinners" (Tinners Arms inn in Zennor village) for lunch. There are four buses in each direction along the B3306 road in summer, so time it right and you won't have to walk back! On summer Saturday evenings, Judy and I used to take a Creme Egg each and drive out to the marvellous sunset viewpoint just above Hillside Farm on the Newmill road, just past Zennor. You could walk the whole of the South West Coast Path from St. Ives around to Marazion or a little beyond in three or four days, returning to Chy an Creet each evening.
For touring by car or bus (buses stop right outside Chy an Creet) we suggest setting off on the B3306 road in a westerly direction. You could stop at Wicca and walk down to Treveal and River Cove or Wicca Pool, from whence the granite for the building of St. Ives Church was despatched by boat in 1400, or or to Zennor. Parking at Wicca Farm is only 50pence (2004) and there’s a handy map of the area on a sign board.
Or, go on to Zennor and explore the museum, church with its carved bench end depicting the Mermaid of Zennor, the Tinners Arms...the fairly short walk out to Zennor Head should not be missed.
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Further west, if you are tempted to explore Portherras beach on this coast, do be sure to protect your feet from remaining pieces of a shipwreck which was "disposed of" by an inappropriate explosion some years ago! Pendeen Lighthouse is open to visitors at certain times and between PENDEEN and ST.JUST there is the former tin-producer, GEEVOR MINE, now offering underground tours of old working workings. Westwards, reached from St.Just, is Cape Cornwall, England's only "Cape" but consider turning off left from Cape Cornwall Road to soak up the sights from the clifftop at Carn Gloose. You'll see Cape Cornwall, The Brisons rocks, Whitesands Bay at Sennen Cove, the Longships Light off Land's End and, on a clear day only, the magical Scillies way out on the horizon. Westwards, if you go down into Sennen Cove. Pass the Lifeboat Station (with its two slipways) and you'll find the fascinating Round House Gallery. There's a car park beyond the gallery and beyond that a very pleasant 20 minute-ish cliff walk to Land's End.
In contrast, Porthgwarra (south of Land's End) is a delightful little seaside hamlet, tucked away at the end of a narrow road. PORTHCURNO, formerly the home of the Cable & Wireless Engineering College, is where you might find your way to the Secret Telegraph Museum deep inside the cliffs. Up the hill above Porthcurno beach is THE MINACK open-air THEATRE with its exhibition centre. If you attend a performance here, take cool clothing and sunscreens on hot afternoons and warm clothing even on warmer evenings. For evening performances, at least one party will normally have a hamper with champagne and sometimes even candelabra for the interval, but make your catering arrangements according to your own preferences! Minack now offer picnic meals at a very reasonable £7.50 (2004) but you do need to order in advance. For daytimes, there's a golden sandy beach (limited facilities) at Porthcurno below the theatre, but be warned that the sand shelves steeply in to the Atlantic oceanic waters of the English Channel so bathing or toe-dipping tends to feel very chilly.
PENBERTH, turn right just past Treen, is one of Cornwall's most perfect fishing coves. Park considerately by the roadside at the edge of the hamlet, walk down to the slipway and rest awhile in the tranquillity.
Continuing around, you come to MOUSEHOLE (pronounced “Mowzel”, though no-one knows how it came by its name) with narrow streets and bijou shops to explore. From Mousehole there is a cycle path right around Mounts Bay to the sleepy south-facing small town of MARAZION. Marazion has the interesting distinction of having its own Postcode (TR17), some say it's something to do with the famous St Michael's Mount, home of Lord St Levan just offshore (but connected to the mainland by a causeway at low tide). St Michael's Mount is now managed by the National Trust but opening times vary. Ferries operate according to tides - check on opening times - and check on the tides. The tide can come in quickly and you don't want wet feet crossing the causeway, do you? The Godolphin Arms, right above the landing stages, serves delicious food to distract you while you wait for the tide.
david@westcornwall.co.uk
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